If you’ve been following our East Coast travels over the last couple of months, you may be wondering how we managed to get from Cape Cod to New Brunswick without going through Maine. Or maybe you thought you somehow missed the Maine blog post.
You didn’t. I decided to write about Maine after New Brunswick because we spent time there both before and after our Canadian adventure. And while I truly loved our days in Maine, I’ll admit—looking back, I wish we had spent more time in Canada. That was the original plan, but as travel often goes, plans change.
Still, Maine delivered plenty of highlights: Acadia National Park, Schoodic Point, a scenic train ride in Ellsworth, and a quick but lively visit to Ogunquit.
Acadia National Park: Loop Road, Carriage Roads, and a Very Quiet Thunder Hole
Acadia’s big attractions are the Park Loop Road, Cadillac Mountain (reservations required), and the famous Carriage Roads.
We’d already been to Cadillac Mountain on a previous trip (Maine and Acadia National Park – Finally Got There!), so this time we focused on the Loop Road. We rode the free shuttle a couple of times, once trying to catch Thunder Hole at high tide. Ironically, the day we did make it there at the perfect time, the ocean was completely flat—no thunder, no drama, just a very calm Atlantic refusing to perform.
We hiked the Ocean Path from Thunder Hole past Otter Cliffs, explored an interior trail, and rode our pedal‑assist bikes on several Carriage Roads. These historic roads are becoming increasingly popular with cyclists, and it’s easy to see why—well-maintained historic gravel roads, gorgeous scenery, and no cars.
One day we took the motorbike down to Bass Harbor, scampering over the rocky shore to get an interesting view of the Bass Harbor Head Light Station, and on another we cruised over to Northeast Harbor to stroll downtown. Beautiful weather, beautiful views, and unmistakable Acadia charm.
Ellsworth: Lobster, Trains, and a Book Lover’s Paradise
In downtown Ellsworth, Carl enjoyed fresh Maine lobster at the Union River Lobster Pot—recommended to us by locals.
For Father’s Day, we hopped aboard the Downeast Scenic Railroad for a short train ride. At one point, the tracks ran so close to a neighborhood that it felt like we were practically skimming past people’s backyards.
But the true gem of Ellsworth? Big Chicken Barn Books & Antiques. This place is a must stop. The two‑story building is enormous—easily the length of a football field, maybe longer. The first floor is filled with antiques from various vendors, plus a used‑book room featuring Maine authors (Stephen King had a huge section!). The second floor is wall‑to‑wall used books, manuals, magazines, and more. If you’re a bibliophile or a collector of older books, it’s the kind of place you can happily get lost in for hours. I loved it!
Schoodic Peninsula: Granite, Waves, and Pure Magic
One of our favorite experiences was riding the motorbike out to Schoodic Point on the Schoodic Peninsula. It’s hard to describe this place adequately.
The shoreline is made up of massive granite formations—bigger than boulders, really—stretching hundreds of feet toward the water. When the ocean is active, the waves slam into the rocks and send up dramatic water shoots that easily outshine Thunder Hole.
People scattered themselves across the rocks in their own ways: hiking around the formations, setting up lawn chairs to listen to the ocean, fishing, or simply waiting for the next blast of water.
There’s a national campground on the peninsula since it’s part of Acadia NP. Next time, we plan to stay there and spend time soaking in the beauty of Schoodic Point.
A Quick Stop in Ogunquit
As we left Maine, we made one last stop in Ogunquit. Fun fact: Ogunquit “seceded” from the town of Wells in 1980 to become its own town.
It was busy—no surprise since it was the week before July 4. The town was buzzing with summer energy. And we were pleasantly and happily surprised that there were more Pride flags than American flags. Many of the businesses are owned by those in the LGBTQ+ community, and the entire town and surrounding areas are LGBTQ+ friendly. If it weren’t so busy (we are not crowded-area people), we would have enjoyed spending more time in town, exploring the shops and supporting some of the businesses.
While there, though our time was short, we rode along Shore Road to the Nubble Lighthouse, then took a lobster boat cruise the next morning.
Now, I’m a romantic at heart with a vivid imagination, so I pictured an authentic lobster boat experience—fishermen hauling traps, sorting lobsters, resetting with bait. I don’t eat seafood, but from my amateur photojournalism perspective, I thought it would be fascinating.
Instead, it was a scenic cruise with rows of benches for about 50 people. Not quite the rugged adventure I envisioned, but still enjoyable. The captain did pull up a couple of traps with lobsters inside, and he explained the process, so we still learned something new.
Maine bookended our New Brunswick adventure with rugged coastlines, charming towns, and experiences that captured the spirit of the state. Whether we were hiking Acadia, browsing endless shelves at Big Chicken Barn, or watching waves explode against Schoodic Point, each stop added something special to our journey. We’re already looking forward to returning—next time with a longer stay and a campsite on the peninsula. Maine may not have been the main event of this trip, but it was absolutely a highlight.
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